Where to stay in Madeira - Hotels Quintas and Apartments

There's a great choice of accommodation in Madeira but for peace of mind, facilities and service the ones to go for are certainly the 4 or 5 star hotels and 'Quintas'. Rooms are generally listed with 'sea' or 'mountain' (inland) views, sometimes both. Mountain view rooms are generally a bit cheaper but some offer a great view; the climate is often visible with clouds and mist on the higher points making for a dramatic and interesting backdrop. So, if you spend a lot of time on the balcony it pays to find a room with a view you like, but if you only sleep at the hotel then save your money and go for a room without the premium of a stunning view.

Hotels
My personal favourites are the Tivoli Madeira and the Golden Residence; the rooms are excellent, breakfast is fine and the staff are just that bit happier than most. Both these hotels can provide a variety of rooms, views and facilities.

Quintas
These are Madeiran Manor Houses. They are generally smaller than hotels, offering a more personal touch. I like the Quinta Perestrello for its central location between Old Funchal and the vibrant Lido. Views are mainly 'mountain' across Funchal to Canico and the food is excellent.

Update:
Had a perfect 2 weeks in a spacious apartment in the very laid-back Madeiran town of Caniço, between the airport and Funchal. You will need a hire car to get the best of it here as the hills are steep, but within a short drive are the famous Village Pub (thankfully not an English pub) with a fine selection of international intoxicants and a fantastic fish restaurant at Reis Magos; the house wine is excellent. In fact I was so impressed with the accommodation that I had another 2 weeks there the following year and intend to stay again!
Details on the Canico Apartment here.

Resources:
Madeira Hotel Guide
Madeira Island Hotel Directory

New Madeira Web Cam

The main reason I'm in Madeira this time is to replace the web cam overlooking Funchal Marina. It's an old analogue camera; as you can see, the left side of the image is a little blurred so now's the time to replace it with an new digital network camera.

The camera was delivered from the UK to coincide with my arrival and all was going well until I realised that the ordered pole mount bracket was missing (despite the fact it was on the delivery note), so now I'm having a new mount made locally. Inconvenient but unavoidable.

UPDATE
The new camera is up and running now but needs to be a little higher. We'll do this soon. In the meantime you can see the results at http://www.madeira-web.com/camera/cam-01.html

Driving in Madeira for Brits

If you want to see the best bits of Madeira, there's no doubt that a hire car is the best solution.

Not only can you see the top sites at a time that suits you (and thereby avoid the throngs of tourists), but you'll be able visit less popular but just as stunning 'out of the way' places too!

So those are the advantages, what about the disadvantages?

Well, for starters, despite the the Brits selfless development of the Island's well-being and wine industry, the locals have decided to ignore our advice drive on the wrong side of the road!

Add that to the fact that 90% of secondary roads are built on mountains and are not well maintained, often with massive, ill-defined storm drains and you'll see you need your wits about you, especially if it's dark and/or rainy!

There is also a certain degree of 'Priority from the Right' on some secondary roads. These apparently are signed but I've missed a few. Madeiran drivers are generally courteous but never assume that they will give way to you, even if the obstacle is on their side and you're going uphill. Best to defer every time if you want to keep your hire car deposit.

Roads.
There are only 2 types of roads in Madeira; 2 lane motorway and narrow roads!

Motorways are a recent addition to the Island, as are the tunnels that they go through. They bypass the old tiny roads that cling to cliffs and have stimulated Madeira's economy wonderfully. Before they existed it could take hours to cover any real distance.

However, there is one big problem with these new motorways - Junctions. Slip roads (or the almost total lack of them) make this the single most dangerous driving situation you are likely to encounter on the Island; I see more accidents at junctions than anywhere else!

Joining the Motorway
Slip roads are so short that it is often impossible to filter in to the main stream of traffic, which means that it can be a necessity to stop and wait for a gap, hoping that those behind you will do the same.

Whilst driving on the motorway I give slip roads a wide berth as cars will 'pop out', apparently assuming you will take evasive action. Whilst not good practice, I prefer to stay in the outside lane whenever possible and safe to do so. This means keeping up to speed and although the limit is 100Kms, you will need eyes in the back of your head as speeding (and undertaking) are commonplace. Look out for the solid white line between lanes at junctions too; you are not meant to cross it.

Country Roads.

Invariably narrow, winding and steep, these are some of the most rewarding routes. Some of these, especially the old roads that new motorways have bypassed are well worth the hassle, offering stunning views of both the coast and mountains. Just look out for rock-falls, pot-holes and massive rain gutters.

Town Driving.
Many small towns have new smooth roads, 'obvious' junctions and good signage. Funchal is basically easy to navigate, but the east end from the 'Old Town' is also easy to get lost in. Best bet is to pull over (safely) and consult your street map. You do have a map? You'll need one!

Tickets
You can't escape them, they are passed to the UK for execution, so stay legal!

And whilst on the subject of staying legal, even if you are completely used to driving abroad, don't drink a drop of alcohol. It's not just the legal aspect; driving by 'autopilot' here isn't quite the same as in the UK. It'll end in tears. Same goes if you're under the weather - unless you are in complete command of your faculties, don't drive.

One final word; my Madeiran friends tell me they can normally tell pretty quickly who the foreign drivers are, especially the Brits so lets not give them any more ammunition! ;)

Resources:
Strawberry Autos - nice clean cars and not expensive. I've had both Toyota Aygos and Yaris from them and was impressed both with the cars and the service.

Madeira Web - lots of useful info, nice girls too ;)

Madeira again

Visiting Madeira?

I'm lucky enough to have a job that takes me frequently to Madeira and less frequently to the Portuguese mainland. My 'carbon footprint' may be of mammoth proportions, but I've amassed enough experience to enable me to pass on a few hints and tips that may save the prospective traveler some time and effort, point up the places to go (or not) and generally, not just 'how to get by' but to make the most of the place.

I'll be adding to this blog regularly so if Madeira (or Lisbon) is your destination, pop back soon :)